Red Indian Rapids
and Badger Chute: Rafting and Canoeing on
the Exploits
For paddlers, the Exploits is an accommodating
river. Novice canoeists can spend a leisurely
day on its calmer stretches, navigating among
grassy islands and scanning the riverbanks
for waterfowl, beaver, moose and even the
occasional black bear. Rafters seeking a quick
fix of adrenaline can sign on with an outfitter
for a rollicking ride through Badger Chute,
followed by an easy going glide to Grand Falls-Windsor.
And true whitewater adventurers? They can
test their skills on an overnight trip through
a series of challenging rapids, saving t he
surfing hole of Rose's Roost for a heart-stopping,
last-minute thrill. The scenery is spectacular,
campsites are plentiful, waterfowl and wildlife
are abundant, the river is teeming with fish
- and, reassuringly, the dangerous days of
Exploits log drives are a thing of the past.
Whether you are paddling or portaging,
look for these Exploits landmarks:
• The Millertown Dam - A traditional
starting point for full-scale river runs,
marking the place where the waters of Red
Indian Lake empty into the Exploits River.
• Red Indian Rapids - below
the headwaters of the Exploits at Red Indian
Lake. These are first major rapids on the
river, and can be run by experienced paddlers.
• Red Indian Falls - the only
required portage for expert paddlers. Red
Indian Falls was a traditional campsite
for the Beothuk, and continues to be a favourite
stopping place for canoeists and kayakers.
• The Steps - About 10 kilometres
below Badger, a series of small drop-down
ledges provide thrills to rafters, whitewater
canoeists and kayakers.
• Badger Chute - ("The
Shoot") Below The Steps, the Exploits
narrows into a channel of about 15 metres
in width. Rafters and expert paddlers revel
in the swift water and showering spray of
this Class III-IV rapid.
• Rose's Roost - For experts
only! A small but challenging surfing hole
about 100 metres below Badger Chute.
A Sea Kayaking
Tour of the Bay of Exploits
Ethereal icebergs drifting among ancient,
mystical islands, bald eagles soaring above
rocky coves, the breathtaking thrill of
a breaching whale - the rewards of kayaking
the protected waters of the Bay of Exploits,
at the mouth of the Exploits River, often
come as a revelation to first-time visitors
to Newfoundland's northern coast.
Sporting
Salmon
If you're planning a fishing trip
to central Newfoundland, you've
made a sound decision. The province
contains over 200 Atlantic salmon
rivers - more than 60% of all
the Atlantic salmon rivers in
North America. But don't forget
your camera!
With salmon runs on the Exploits
benefiting from a major, man-made
boost - including stocking, transfer
and a series of ladders and fishways
- Newfoundland's longest river
has also become one of its most
premiere angling destinations.
After almost 5 decades of habitat
enhancement, fly fishers can cast
their lines with confidence, into
pool after productive pool, easily
hooking 2-3 kilogram grilse, and
trophies as large as 13 or 14
kilograms. You are welcome to
keep a couple of the former, but
when it comes to the big ones,
snapshots will be your only record:
all salmon over 63 centimetres
(from the tip of the nose to the
fork of the tail) must be released.
Sport fishing in Newfoundland's
salmon waters is nothing short
of spectacular, but regulation
is part of its success. Bag limits
and catch-and-release requirements
on scheduled salmon waters are
carefully monitored. Salmon may
only be angled by hook and line,
and only a non-weighted, barbless
artificial fly with a single hook
may be used. Bait, metal lures
and double and triple-pronged
hooks are strictly prohibited.
Salmon rivers, such as the Exploits,
are classified by the federal
Department of Fisheries and Oceans
based on the strength of the salmon
run. Your licensed fishing guide
can advise you about current bag
limits and catch-and-release regulations
for both salmon and trout. (Non-residents
must obtain non-resident salmon
and trout licenses for all scheduled
salmon-producing waters, and must
be accompanied by a licensed guide
or direct relative who is a resident
of the province.)
Unlike some of Newfoundland's
smaller rivers and streams, the
Exploits is easily accessible
by road along much of its course.
Your outfitter can guide you to
surefire spots such as Great Rattling
Brook, a tributary of the Exploits
just below Grand Falls-Windsor,
or the layout pools just a short
walk from the Fallsview Municipal
Park in Bishop's Falls. Typical
Exploits River fishing trip days
start just before dawn, and end
just after dusk, with lots of
time for lunching, loafing and
exploring in between. Many outfitters
offer comfortable lodges and plentiful
gourmet meals, in addition to
ensuring some of the best salmon
fishing on the planet. |
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Even novice kayakers can fill their lungs
with fresh sea air, and paddle their way
to stunning scenery (and hearty shoreline
suppers), during a well-equipped, week-long
guided tour of this 1,000 square kilometre,
30-island archipelago. After an initial
crossing from the mainland, the next landing
spot is never more than a few kilometres
away, and history, both merry and melancholy,
hovers around every bend. The Bay once sheltered
the area's vanished Beothuk, and served
as home to a tightly-knit community of European
settlers.
Exploring Exploits Island - First
settled in the mid to later 1700's by families
from England and the Jersey Islands, Exploits
Island, along with adjacent Burnt Island,
was once the centre of an economy based
on fishing and sealing. In the late 1800's,
at the peak of its habitation, over 600
people lived permanently on the Island,
in homes clustered along the shoreline.
Most made their living from the Labrador
fishery; a few operated sealing vessels,
shipbuilding operations and retail businesses,
and all grew vegetables and raised livestock
for their own use.
After 1900, the decline of the fishery
led to a corresponding decline in the Island's
population and during the government-sponsored
resettlement programs of the 1960's and
early 1970's, all but a handful of the Island's
residents left for the mainland. Today,
visitors to Exploits Island can visit the
Island's manned lighthouse, the breakwater
at Lookout Point that was built by hand
over 150 years ago, and the schoolhouse,
still equipped with desks and a pot-belly
stove. At the pioneer cemetery in Lower
Harbour, a weathered granite slab marks
the resting places of 19th century salmon
fishers John Peyton Sr. and John Peyton
Jr., well known for their controversial
involvement with the Beothuks of the Exploits
River. Shanawdithit, the last known Beothuk,
lived with the Peytons on Exploits Island
after her capture in 1819.
Many roads and walking trails on Exploits
and Burnt Islands remain intact, making
hiking a popular pastime for visitors.
Tour Timing:
Early in the summer, Bay of Exploits kayakers
are more likely to encounter icebergs and
whales, but waters are cold, and wet suits
may be necessary. By August, whales and
bergs are scarce, but no special clothing
is required, and paddlers can enjoy an intermittent
ocean swim.
Hike the T'Railway
Provincial Park
Cyclists, equestrians, snowmobilers, cross-country
skiers, dog sledders, snowshoers, and even
hikers who cover the Exploits River portion
of the Newfoundland T'Railway are likely to
reach greater speeds than the "Newfie
Bullet," the infamous snail's-pace train
that crawled along Newfoundland's narrow-gauge
railway from 1898 to 1969.
The former 900-kilometre route of the Canadian
National rail line, from St. John's to Port
aux Basques, has been transformed into the
T'Railway Provincial Park and now forms
the Newfoundland leg of the 15,000 kilometre
Trans Canada Trail.
Completed sections of the T'Railway now
include:
• Wreckhouse Trail - near Port
aux Basques (20 kilometres)
• Cobb's Corridor - extending
from the community of Gambo to Lewisporte
Junction (90 kilometres)
• The Grand Concourse - spanning
the St. John's urban region (15 kilometres)
• Exploits Valley - paralleling
the Exploits River along its lower reaches
(26 kilometres)
The Exploits Valley section of the trail
passes through mostly level terrain, with
occasional high hills several kilometres
from the rail bed. The route connects Bishop's
Falls, Grand Falls-Windsor, Badger and Millertown
Junction, following the river's edge between
Grand Falls-Windsor and Badger. This section
of the trail features the T'Railway's longest
bridge, a 282.5 metre steel truss train
trestle that crosses the Exploits River
at Bishop's Falls.
More
Exploits Valley Hiking Trails
- ERMA Walking Trail
Adjacent to the Salmonid Interpretation
Centre in Grand Falls-Windsor.
A short path along the banks of
the Exploits River, with opportunities
to see a Herring Gull colony,
Kingfishers, Kinglets, Spruce
Grouse, Warblers and Sparrows.
Beothuk Park - Within a
private park on the west side
of Grand Falls-Windsor. Birders
can look for Sparrows, Warblers,
waterfowl species, and Three-toed
Woodpeckers.
Corduroy Brook
Trail - Along Corduroy Brook
in Grand Falls-Windsor, through
birch trees, residential areas
and a wetland area. Look for Cedar
Waxwings, waterfowl, Sparrows,
Finches and Warblers.
East
Tickle Hiking Trail - In Leading
Tickles, located on the coast
at the end of Route 350. The trail
begins near the entrance to the
town, extending through patches
of dogberries and fireweed, along
a beach filled with driftwood
and shells and into a wooded area.
In spring and summer, migrating
icebergs can be seen along the
shore. |
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