TRAVEL
Great Canadian RIVERS 
History 
Ecosystem 
Culture 
Recreation 
Economy 

 
MissinaibiRiverEcosystem

The World's Largest Game Preserve
No hunting, no trapping. Just room to roam for the fortunate animal inhabitants of the Chapleau Crown Game Preserve. At 700,000 hectares, the Preserve, anchored by the waters of Missinaibi Lake and the upper Missinaibi River, is the largest game preserve in the world. It was established in 1925, when local conservationists persuaded the Ontario government that railway access to the area had resulted in the over-harvesting of game and fur-bearing animals.

A complete ban on hunting and trapping of wildlife in the Preserve has resulted in plentiful populations and exceptional opportunities for wildlife viewing and photography. Featuring all of the animals indigenous to the boreal forest region of northeastern Ontario, the Preserve's species list includes:

• Timber Wolves (8-10 wolf packs)
• Black Bears (approximately 2,000)
• Moose (approximately 2,500)
• Furbearers - Muskrat, Beaver, Fisher, Marten, Mink, Fox, Otter and Lynx.

The Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources maintains several wildlife viewing stations within the Preserve. A number of ecologically sensitive areas have also been identified, including heronries, Osprey and Eagle nests, waterfowl staging areas and cold water fisheries.

Sports fishers take note: recreational angling is permitted in the Preserve, with year-round fishing for Walleye, Northern Pike, Lake Trout, Speckled Trout, Rainbow Trout, Splake, Yellow Perch, Lake Whitefish and Smallbouth Bass.

Land of the Loon
Cold, clean and secluded: the lakes of the upper Missinaibi provide ideal habitat for the Common Loon, Canada's emblematic water bird. While the sight of the Loon, with its red eyes, dagger-like beak, glossy black head, black and white checkered back and distinctive feathered "necklace," is familiar to campers and cottagers hundreds of kilometres to the south, the wilderness waters of Missinaibi or Brunswick Lakes are far more suited to the bird's reclusive and solitary nature. In this remote area of northern Ontario, shoreline development, oil spills, acid rain, mercury contamination, and lead pollution - all leading causes of Loon mortality in more populated areas of the bird's range - do not pose any major threats.

Common Loons are extremely territorial, claiming entire bays or even small lakes as a single-family residence. Loon pairs raise their young- usually 2 in number - in quiet companionship, taking turns to incubate the eggs and carry the downy, brown-black newborn chicks on their backs. Only at the end of the summer, with their chicks swimming and feeding on their own, do adults begin to gather in migrating groups of 15-20.

While Loons are strong swimmers and remarkably adept divers - sometimes plunging as deep as 80 metres, for up to a minute at a time - they are clumsy and awkward on land. Their solid bones and muscular legs, placed far back on their bodies, help them to sink and swim, but make them heavy and slow to take wing. Take-offs and landings are often thrashing, crashing affairs that contrast sharply to the low-slung grace of their swimming profile. Nesting Loons look for conveniently sloping sites directly adjacent to deep water, making the transition from land to lake nothing more than a downward slip and slide. Overwhelmingly a water bird, the Loon spends as little time as possible on firm ground. After their first day or two on the lake, chicks do not return to the nest; at night, the birds bob quietly over deep water, well away from predators.

Loons use 4 distinct calls, sometimes in combination, to communicate with their families and other Loons. They include:

Tremolo - Resembles a crazed laugh. Used to signal alarm or worry and to denote annoyance or greeting.
Wail - Used during social interactions between Loons, or to regain contact with a mate during night chorusing and in answering other Loon tremolos.
Yodel - Given only by the male. A long, rising call with repetitive notes in the middle, lasting up to 6 seconds.
Hoo - A one-note call used mainly by family members to locate one another.

The Lynx-Snowshoe Hare Cycle
In a remarkable association between 2 elements of the forest food chain, the population cycle of the Canada Lynx is closely linked to that of the Snowshoe Hare. The Hare is the primary food of the Lynx, making up about 75% of its diet; each individual consumes 150 - 200 Hares per year, or 1 Hare every other day.
About every 10 years, however, the Snowshoe Hare population reaches a peak density that cannot be supported by the habitat; the Hares begin to starve, and are easily preyed upon by the large, well-fed population of Lynx. As the Hare population rapidly shrinks, the Lynx population begins its downward trend. At first, the Lynx continue to eat well, but as the Hares become scarce, the fat reserves of the Lynx disappear. For a period of 3-5 years, fewer females breed; fewer kittens are born to those that do breed, and most perish soon after birth. Gradually, as Hare become more plentiful, the Lynx population begins its upward trend, repeating one of nature's most fascinating ecological patterns.
The Secret Life of the Lynx
Zooming in a for a close-up shot of a moose, muskrat, beaver, or even black bear in the Chapleau Crown Game Preserve, surrounding the upper reaches of the Missinaibi River, may not be much of a challenge for experienced wildlife photographers. But capturing the territory's Canada Lynx on camera is a rare accomplishment. This cat is solitary, secretive and nocturnal, and consequently, is rarely seen in the wild.

The undisturbed boreal forest of the Chapleau Preserve favours the Lynx, providing a thick cover of brush and an ample supply of hollow trees and fallen timber for making dens. The lean, stout-bodied feline, with its pale grey or buff long-haired coat, sideburn-like ruffs of hair along its cheeks, tufted ears and short, black-tipped tail, moves silently through the dense undercover, watching and listening for its prey. Lacking an acute sense of smell, and unable to run fast except over short distances, the Lynx relies on excellent eyesight, patience and stealth to ambush its prey at close range. The male Lynx usually hunts alone; females hunt with their young until the kittens are old enough to fend for themselves.

The Lynx is well-equipped to survive the deep snows of northern Ontario, using its broad, snowshoe-like feet to move easily along the surface. The dense, coarse hair that grows on their paws in winter increases the snowshoe effect, and helps to keep them warm.

The Canada Lynx is sometimes mistaken for its feline cousin, the Bobcat. Although their territories overlap, the northernmost range of the Bobcat lies approximately along the Canada-U.S. border, well south of the Missinaibi. The Bobcat is generally smaller than the Lynx, with less pronounced ear tufts and cheek ruffs, different tail markings, and a more patterned and varied coat coloration. It is also less secretive, hunting by both day and night.

Abitibi Uplands and James Bay Lowlands: Two Faces of the Missinaibi
Adventurous whitewater canoeists who cover both the upper and lower sections of the Missinaibi River can lay claim to some distinguished geographical bragging rights. Starting from the river's headwaters at Missinaibi Lake, they will be just 5 kilometres north of the height of land that divides the Great Lakes and the James Bay watersheds. Just over two-thirds of the way down the river's 426 kilometre course (below Thunderhouse Falls), they will descend from the rock of the Precambrian Shield into the James Bay Lowlands, passing from Ontario's oldest and most dominant geological feature into the marine basin of younger sedimentary rock that forms its northern border.

Peterbell Plants: At its source, the Missinaibi lies within a transitional forest, with Great Lakes hardwoods such as Ash and Elm providing the tree cover. Along much of its length, boreal species such as White Spruce, Balsam Fir and Jack Pine dominate its uplands, with Black Spruce and white Cedar in wetland areas, and White Birch and Trembling Aspen appearing in areas that have been disturbed by logging or forest fires. At Peterbell Marsh, between Missiniaibi Lake and Brunswick Lake, the river runs through broad stretches of low, flooded vegetation. Botanists will find specimens of Bugleweed, Narrow-leaved Gentian, Leafy White Orchis and Fragrant Water Lily, and wildlife watchers are likely to see Moose and Otter.

Prehistoric Peat:
Below Thunderhouse Falls, as the rocky Shield gives way to the clay bluffs of the James Bay Lowlands, an ecologically significant area of ferns and vascular plants lies adjacent to the riverbank. Further downstream, 5 distinct layers of till, laid down by 5 glacial advances, can be seen in the steep cliffs along the eastern shore; an unusually thick layer of interglacial peat, known as the Missinaibi Formation, appears at the mouth of the Soweska River, a tributary of the lower Missinaibi.

Estuary End:
Downstream of the Soweska, the land levels out and the river widens; the forest is overwhelmingly Cedar, with some Poplar and occasional stands of White Spruce. Sightings of Woodland Caribou and Sandhill Cranes are a possibility as the river approaches its confluence with the Mattagami and forms the Moose River. About 35 kilometres from Moosonee, the murky Abitibi River joins the Moose; soon, the river broadens into a wide estuary, and the effects of James Bay tides can be felt. Subarctic vegetation predominates, and Semi-palmated Plovers and Least Sandpipers skitter over the gravel bars.