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SkeenaRiverEcosystem

Gitandoix River Provincial Recreation Area
Mountain goats, moose and all 5 species of Pacific salmon can be found in the valley of the Gitandoix River, a major intertidal tributary of the Skeena located about 45 kilometres inland from Prince Rupert. Surrounding the Gitandoix, a vast 56,800 hectare wilderness recreation area encompasses the northern reaches of Alastair Lake at the river's headwaters. The lake is the site of one of only 3 known British Columbia nesting sites for trumpeter swans, the rarest swans in the world. Access to Alastair Lake is available by charter aircraft from Prince Rupert, or boat travel via the Skeena River.

The Skeena's Sturdy Steelhead
At an average weight of 4 kilograms, the sturdy, streamlined steelhead is a titan among trout and a legend among anglers. In the waters of the Skeena and its Sustut, Babine, Kispiox, and Bulkley tributaries, home of the largest runs of wild steelhead in the world, the trophy trout is truly colossal, routinely reaching record weights of 10 - 16 kilograms.


Tough Trout: Both individually and as a species, the steelhead is characterized by its toughness and durability. A sea-going, or anadromous, version of the smaller but genetically similar rainbow trout, the steelhead migrates to the Pacific Ocean to feed and fatten before returning to spawn in the rivers and streams of North America's Pacific coast. With a wide range, a staggered, year-round spawning schedule of summer and winter runs, the ability to spawn repeatedly, and a relatively lengthy lifespan of up to 8 years, the steelhead is a versatile and viable species. Large, taut and muscular, rugged steelhead run far and leap high, often surviving the punishing rigors of spawning to return, at least once, to their ocean feeding grounds.

Eulachon: The Rich Fish
For seals, sea lions, eagles and gulls, March is meal time at the mouth of the Skeena River. Schools of mouth-watering smelts known as eulachon (or oolichan, pronounced ool-i-kan) are on Mother Nature's menu, attracting a host of hungry predators as the spawning fish begin their upstream journey.
Small, scaly and skinny, the finger-sized spawning eulachon is known not for its appearance, but for its rich taste. Its popularity, with wildlife and humans alike, lies in the astonishingly high oil content of it flesh- so high that the fish can be dried, fitted with a wick through the mouth, and lit as a candle! (The eulachon's scientific name, thaleichthys pacificus, is derived from the Greek word, thaleia, meaning rich and ichthys meaning fish.)

Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary
With its undisturbed estuary, rugged mountain tops, old growth rainforests and natural wetlands, Canada's only grizzly bear sanctuary, about 45 kilometres north of the Skeena River on the British Columbia coast, provides protection to a rich wildlife population that includes moose, wolves, black bears, mountain goats, martens, wolverines, porcupines, river otter, beaver, harbour seals, shorebirds, waterfowl, whales and several species of salmon. Fishing, hunting and camping are strictly prohibited in the 45,000 hectare sanctuary, which is home to about 50 grizzlies (about 2.5% of the Pacific Coast grizzly population). Limited wildlife viewing from the estuary, supervised by commercial guides or a park ranger, can be arranged. No visitors are allowed on shore. For more information, visit Canadian Parks, Khutzeymateen Grizzly Bear Sanctuary.

Valuable Condiment: Traditionally, eulachon fish have been eaten fresh, smoked and dried, as well as being rendered into oil. Unlike other fish oils, eulachon lipids are solid at room temperature, with the colour and consistency of butter. Composed of oleic, stearic and palmitic acids, the oil is high in vitamins A, D, K and E. Eulachon "grease," extracted through a process of decomposition, heating, skimming and straining, has long been a dietary staple of the Skeena River Tsimshian, Gitksan and Nisga'a tribes. It has also been used for food preservation, medicinal and lubricating purposes.

For centuries, First Nations traders from the Nass, Skeena and Bella Coola valleys followed well-trodden "grease trails" far into the western interior, back-packing heavy boxes of valuable eulachon grease, held in place by cedar rope "tump-lines," attached to headbands. Some trails, operating on a relay system, extended as far as the prairies. When Alexander Mackenzie made his famous overland journey to the Pacific Ocean, he followed an ancient grease trail from the Upper Fraser to the Bella Coola.

Food Chain Feature: Like salmon, eulachon play an important role in the Pacific coast ecosystem. As ocean-going juveniles, they are preyed upon by sturgeon, dogfish, salmon and halibut. As spawning adults, their early spring arrival provides a tasty, timely, calorie-packed end to the winter hunger of bears, eagles and many other birds and mammals. Even in death, the spent bodies of the spawned-out fish contribute to the nutrient cycle of the land and water.

Smelt Sensitivity: Although spawning eulachon have been found in over 30 British Columbia rivers, the Skeena, Nass, Fraser and Klinaklini are considered to be the species' major spawning river systems. Historically, the range of the eulachon has corresponded roughly to that of the coastal temperate rainforest, extending from northern California to Alaska. In the past decade, however, puzzling variations in eulachon spawning runs have been noted, ranging from a complete disappearance in California, to dramatic seasonal drops in formally stable rivers such as the Fraser.

Furthermore, researchers have observed that an abundance of eulachon in marine waters does not always guarantee a high biomass of spawning fish in the river systems. Ocean warming, marine pollution, and toxic run-off from urbanization and agriculture affect the eulachon's ability to spawn - if conditions aren't right, the diminutive, but sensitive, fish will stay in the ocean and wait another year to fulfill their biological destiny.

Eulachon Life Cycle

• Like the Pacific salmon and the steelhead trout, the eulachon is an anadromous fish, hatching in freshwater, rearing in the ocean, and returning to the river to spawn.
• During spawning, up to 60,000 eggs from the female are dispersed, along with sperm from the male, along the river bottom, where they become attached to sand particles.
• The eggs hatch into larvae within 21 to 40 days, depending on water temperature, and are quickly swept through the estuary and out to sea.
• Eulachon mature at 2 years of age, reaching an average size of 20 centimetres. They spend 3 to 5 years in the ocean, feeding on a diet of plankton, shrimp-like krill, and other small crustaceans.
• Few eulachon are repeat spawners - most die after their first and only journey to their natal river.

Bears in Black and White
Sheltered by wilderness and fed by fish - including an annual run of 5 million salmon - the bear population of the Skeena river watershed remains robust. Black bears are a frequent sight in the tall roadside grasses of the highway that connects coastal Prince Rupert with the inland towns of Terrace and Hazelton. Dusty white or reddish-brown Kermode "Spirit Bears," recipients of a rare recessive black bear gene, occasionally appear, inhabiting the northernmost reach of a range that extends from Terrace, south along the Pacific Coast to Princess Royal Island. Along the banks of the Skeena, and its many streams and tributaries, elusive grizzly bears feed on skunk cabbage, succulent sedges and spawning salmon. In the rainforests of the coast, and the boreal forests of the interior, "mark trees" etched with massive claws, or rubbed bare by broad, fur-shedding backs, form intricate and mysterious bear trails.